Specialization– High altitude mountain climbing 
 

Location:This tour is held on Zaalayskiy Range, Pamir, Osh region of Republic of Kyrgyzstan.

 

Durationis 19 days

 

Best timeto travel is July the 1^st to September the 10^th

 

Lenin Peak (H=7134 m) dominates over the whole central region of Zaalayskiy range and has the fantastic panorama visible in different points of Alayskiy range and Alay glen. A part of Zaalayskiy range from the Krylenko pass (H=5820m) from the East up to the summit of Razdelnaya (Divided) (H=6148 m) in the West belongs to Lenin Peak. Northern and Southern slopes of Lenin Peak are covered with glaciers and immense depth of snow and glacier snow. This is the main knot of frozen of Zaalayskiy range, one of the most immense on Pamir.

There is a wide glacier of the same name, 7 – 8 km lengths, descending from Lenin Peak slopes. The circuit of this glacier, merged from two branches, is limited by long forking range stretching to the North, from South – East. Icy cape is restricted by the spur of Zaalay with summits of XIX Sjezd KPSS (XIX congress of Communism Party of Soviet Union) (H= 5920 m), and Mir peak (Peace) (H=4909 m), and from the East it is restricted by parallel nameless range – spur with summits of 5686 m and CDSA peak (H=5120 m) serves as basis and max made as home area for assents to Lenin peak from the North. The summit of Lenin Peak towers over the circuit of Lenin glacier more than 3000 m. The common occurrence is avalanches and glacier slips here. Basic rocks forming peak’s pyramid are limestone, shale and sandstone as all northern slopes of Zaalayskiy range. Ledges, screes of feet of the mountains, precipitation of moraine and climate characteristics of this area defined by location, changeable altitude and complicated orthography depend on the local and sharp continental character; all these circumstances give evidence about the composition of local rocks. Summer is June to August; it is short and cold. Diurnal variations of temperature are very great. Even in the hottest season, it can be changeable from +5⁰ C (daytime) to – 3⁰ C (nighttime). Prevailing winds generally have south – Western, Southern directions and they usually weaken at night, and sometimes they quite die down at night. Frequent occurrence, especially it takes place on high altitudes in daytime. Sometimes the dense haze penetrates the Alay valley from Takla – Makan desert (from East) or from Afghanistan (from West). This dense mist is the product of sandy storms and so it is always dry. It decreases visibility and causes troubles to visual connection very much. The snowy flag over the summit of Lenin Peak is often watched in clear weather and looks like so harmless from the bottom usually testifies to ferocious blizzard bluster up top. The climbers must take into consideration the increasing force of the wind due to increasing attitude, a possibility to be frostbitten and partly lost of capacity for work owing to oxygen insufficiency, especially over H=6500 m; also they must be able to organize safe and comfortable bivouac in every condition, including snowy cave; they must keep necessary reserve of strength and facilities. In addition, it is needed to be acquainted with local indications of weather’s changes. The success of ascent can be only occasional without preliminary acclimatization and prospecting ascents.

From the point of view of hiking to the start points of routes; location of Lenin Peak is comfortable and has accessible approaches to a base camp; they are more accessible than to mountains of 7000m. Ways to the summit along crests (as to Eastern so to Western ones) do not require complicated technical methods and tactical constructions that make idea about its accessibility. Nevertheless, this opinion is mistaken and even dangerous.

The popularity of Lenin peak’s area with enormous possible ascents to its summit thanks to assimilation of routes stipulated by making up joint actions with investigators of mountains of different directions ( Physics, Physiology and etc) and explorers of closely related kinds of sport, like mountain skiing, paraplanerism. Base camp is on the altitude of 3600m and it is completely equipped (electricity, refectory, sauna, bar, tents, first – aid post, radio communication).  

Lenin peak (7134m) is the gigantic snow-covered mountain massif in the northern part of the Pamirs in Zaalaaiskiy range and it is considered as one of mountains of 7000m, which you can easily ascend without any special training and high-altitude climbing experience.

After the first ascent in 1928, climbers use many routes of different categories. Everyone can choose a suitable route for his/her technical and physical abilities. Even not very skilled climbers have the opportunity to conquer this peak. Lenin Peak slopes are the ideal site for ski descent (from the top to the Lenin glacier, drop in altitude about 2,5 km).

 

Programme

Day 1.Arrival in Tashkent. Met at the airport and transfer to a hotel. Check in the hotel. A time to relax. Lunch. Excursion around the architectural monuments of Tashkent city, including visit to Kukeldash Medresseh (CXVI), Barak-Khan Medresseh (CXVI), Kaffal Al Shashe Mausoleum (CXVI), Khast-Imam complex and Orient Bazaar of Chor-Su for 4 hours. Dinner.

Day 2.Breakfast at the hotel. Drive to Osh city (D=470 km, T=7-8 hrs.). Lunch en route. Check in a hotel. Dinner.

Day 3.Breakfast at the hotel. Drive to the basic camp in the Achiktash gorge. (T=8 hrs.) Lunch en roure. Accommodation in the basic camp. Dinner.

Days 4-6.Days of acclimatisation with ascents to high mountains area. Overnights on the altitude of 4200-5200m.

Day 7.Day to relax.

Day 8.Walk to the high mountain area. Preparation to ascent on the Lenin Peak (H=7134m).

Days 9-16.Ascend to the Lenin Peak (H=7134m). Descend to the basic camp.

Day 17.Breakfast at the basic camp and transfer to Osh city (T=8 hrs.). Lunch en route. Check in a hotel upon arrival in Osh. Dinner.

Day 18. Breakfast at the hotel. Drive to Tashkent city (D=470 km, T=8 hrs.). Lunch en route. Check in a hotel. Dinner.

Day 19.Breakfast at the hotel. Transfer to the airport. Departure from Tashkent.

 

Transport:

Tashkent –Osh and back – on a comfortable bus

Osh- Achiktash – on a general-duty cross-country vehicle

 

Accommodations:

Tashkent – a hotel

Osh – a hotel

Achiktash – equipped basic Camp (2 persons per a tent)

on ascending – tents (2 for a tent)

 

Food:

3 meals a day in the city and in the equipped basic camp and dry ration within ascending.

 

The price quoted for this programme includes the following:

transfers to and from airports, A/C transportation and all scheduled excursions detailed on the itinerary

double/twin sharing accommodation on B&B basis with private bath or shower in each hotel of different category  

All meals (FB)

SS programmes with local guides speaking your native language & entrance fees as specified in the programme

national guide (escort) speaking your native language and accompanying you for the entire itinerary

visa invitation letter (visa authorisation letter)

license fees

mountain guides

 

Extra service:

Use of a helicopter Tashkent-Achiktash (if you are taken by a helicopter to Achiktash, the two days of drive in and out Achiktash are excluded form the programme).

 

Note– This adventure travel holiday is suitable for anyone who is in good health and enjoys a fair level of fitness. Experience in mountain ascents is required. Within ascending mountain-climbers use their own equipment.

 

 

 

The price excludes the following:

Visas

Single supplement charge

Travel Insurance

Tipping

Items of a personal nature, such as laundry, drinks, etc.